Crate
Every puppy needs a crate. For a puppy, we recommend the plastic airline style crate because it provides a comfortable, den like feeling while it also provides very simple clean up. Odds are your puppy is going to have an accident in its crate and plastic crates are easy to clean and keep messes contained as much as possible. As the dog matures, I recommend one of the foldable wire type crates as it is more transportable for trips and also provides more ventilation for the adult dog.
Bedding
I recommend putting an old towel for padding and absorbsion over a rubber backed bath mats that provides traction. Any puppy that chews or tears up its bedding should have NO bedding in its crate. Have several towels and mats available as they will need to be changed and washed on a regular basis. As the puppy learns to respect its bedding, a thick dog bed with a washable cover is appropriate. Many dogs love the orthopedic memory foam or egg crate foam beds. Other dogs prefer to sleep beside the bed on the cool tile floor.
Bowls
I strongly recommend Stainless Steel bowls for your dog. For most medium to large dogs, a 2 or 3 quart bowl for food is plenty big. A 3 quart no-tip bowl for water is appropriate for most larger dogs. Stainless steel bowls last forever, are virtually chewproof, are easy to scrub and can be disinfected in the dishwasher. Plastic bowls cannot truly be disinfected. Plan on washing your dog's food bowl after every meal. You wouldn't use the same plate for breakfast, lunch and dinner without washing it. Wash your dog's water bowl at least once a day.
Collar and Lead
For growing puppies, I recommend adjustable collars. For an adult, I recommend a strong, sturdy buckle collar. For a dog with coat, I suggest a rolled leather collar because they help prevent matting, but for a short coated dog, a cute collar is a must! Certainly a collar can be fashionable as well as functional. A good sturdy leash that is comfortable in your hands will make walking easier. Your adult dog will likely need a different collar and lead as an adult than it did as a puppy. I don't like slip chains or choke collars due to the damage they can do to a dog's throat. If you have a serious puller, I strongly recommend training classes and a pinch collar over the use of a choke chain. Personally I do not like head halters and a harness is for pulling, not for walking.
Toys
Puppies need toys. Each puppy will dictate which toys are safe for them. Any toy that gets torn up should be discarded immediately and replaced with a safer toy. Most puppies adore plush squeak toys, but for the distructive puppy, plush toys may not be safe for them. Hard chew bones help with the teething process. There are also a bunch of new toys on the market designed specifically for puppies. Be careful about the size of the toy and be sure it is too large to be swallowed. Balls should be larger as opposed to smaller to prevent accidental swallowing. Kong toys are typically great entertainment. To keep a puppy interested in toys, play with the puppy with the toys. Also trade out the toys so the puppy does not always have the same toys to play with every day. Have a selection of toys and trade between them giving the puppy only a couple toys at a time rather than giving the puppy more toys to choose from. Too many toys can cause a puppy to think everything is a toy, which can make it more difficult for them to learn to leave your items alone.
Grooming Tools
Different breeds require different grooming tools. Research coat care for your breed and purchase the best tools for the job. Introduce the puppy to the grooming tools and the proper grooming procedures at a young age. Grooming should be a great bonding time for you and your puppy, and introduced properly, it should not be a time for torture.
Shampoo
It is normal for a puppy to need a bath on a regular basis. This is a perfect time to teach the puppy proper bath ettiquite. Certainly it is best to teach a puppy to be bathed when it is small, rather than waiting until it is an adult and you have a tremendous battle that you must win. Select a shampoo that appeals to your sense of smell and is labeled for dogs. Some dogs are sensitive to different colognes, so you may need to go with a shampoo without heavy perfumes. Stay away from "medicated" shampoos unless directed to use one for a specific purpose by your veterinarian.
Heartworm Prevention & Flea and Tick Prevention
On your first visit to the vet with your puppy, discuss both heartworm prevention and flea and tick prevention with your vet. Your need for these products will vary with your location. I recommend either Heartgard Plus or Interceptor (both prevent heartworms and intestinal worms) along Frontline Plus (provides very effective flea and tick control) and shy away from the newer products that claim they can do everything. I recommend going with proven products rather than going with the newest product on the market. Many products are released for public use before they have been tested on enough pets. I much prefer to let other people test new products rather than testing them on my dogs. Several products have been removed from the market due to very dangerous side effects, even due to pet deaths and I want to see a new product have a good track record before I use the product on my pet. I don't recommend giving your pet his heartworm prevention and his flea/tick prevention all on the same day. Any time you give your pet a product, you need to monitor the pet for possible reactions. Giving one product at a time allows you to pinpoint what the problem might be. Any dog can react to ANY PRODUCT. There is no such thing as a product that is 100% safe or 100% non-reactive. Even herbal or "natrual" products can cause a reaction. For this reason alone, give products one at a time, rather than as a "Cocktail".
